Pacman frogs (also called horned frogs or Argentine horned frogs) are chunky, ground-dwelling ambush predators with a huge appetite and a very simple lifestyle. They’re one of the most commonly recommended “big” pet frogs in the UK because their enclosure requirements are straightforward and they spend most of the day buried, waiting for food.

Quick Facts

• Common names: Pacman frog, horned frog, Argentine horned frog
• Scientific name: Ceratophrys spp. (often C. cranwelli or C. ornata)
• Adult size: 8–15 cm (3–6 inches), females usually larger
• Lifespan: 10–15 years with good care
• Difficulty: Beginner to intermediate
• Activity: Mostly sit-and-wait, crepuscular/nocturnal

Natural History

Pacman frogs come from warm, seasonally wet grasslands and forest edges in South America. In the wild they burrow into damp soil or leaf litter and lie in ambush for anything that passes within range. Captive husbandry aims to provide that same secure, damp hideaway and a stable supply of food.

Enclosure & Setup

• Minimum size: Around 60 × 45 cm footprint for an adult. Height is less important than floor area.
• Type: Glass or plastic terrarium with secure lid and good ventilation.
• Substrate: Deep coco fibre/topsoil mix (8–10 cm or more) kept damp but not waterlogged, so the frog can burrow.
• Décor: Leaf litter, cork bark and plants (live or artificial) for cover. One shallow water dish large enough for the frog to sit in.

Pacman frogs are solitary. Never house them together — they will attempt to eat each other.

Temperature & Humidity

• Day temperature: 24–28 °C across most of the enclosure.
• Night temperature: Can drop to around 20–22 °C.
• Heating: A gentle heat source (ceramic or heat mat on the side) controlled by a thermostat.
• Humidity: Around 60–80%. Mist the substrate as needed and monitor with a hygrometer.

Lighting

Pacman frogs do not bask like reptiles, but a low-level UVB tube is increasingly recommended to support calcium metabolism and overall health. Provide a normal day/night light cycle (around 12 hours on, 12 hours off). Avoid very bright lights right over the frog’s favoured hiding area.

Water & Hydration

• Use dechlorinated or reptile-safe water in the dish and for misting.
• Change water daily; Pacman frogs often foul their bowl.
• Keep the substrate slightly damp all the way down, not just on the surface.

Diet & Feeding

• Main foods: Appropriately sized crickets, locusts, roaches, earthworms.
• Occasional treats: Waxworms, calci-worms, and very occasionally defrosted pinkie mice for large adults.
• Juveniles: Feed small prey items every 1–2 days.
• Adults: Feed 1–2 times per week, watching for obesity.
• Supplements: Dust most feeds with a quality calcium supplement; use a multivitamin a couple of times per week.

Offer prey items with tongs rather than leaving them to wander; this reduces the risk of insects bothering your frog while it rests.

Behaviour & Handling

Pacman frogs are ambush predators with a strong feeding response. They will often lunge at anything moving near their face, including fingers. Bites can be startling and may break the skin in larger specimens, so keep handling to a minimum.

• Handle only when essential (e.g. enclosure cleaning).
• Always wash hands before and after contact — frog skin is very sensitive to chemicals.
• Support the frog gently from underneath; avoid squeezing the sides.

Common Health Issues

• Obesity: Very common; avoid overfeeding and large fatty prey.
• Impaction: If ingesting loose substrate with prey; offer food in a feeding dish if this becomes a problem.
• Skin problems: Linked to poor hygiene, stagnant water or mouldy substrate.
• Metabolic bone disease: Caused by lack of calcium or UVB; prevented by correct diet and lighting.

Is a Pacman Frog Right for You?

Pacman frogs are perfect if you want a hardy, low-maintenance frog that mostly sits, buries and eats. They are not a “hold and cuddle” pet, and much of the enjoyment comes from watching their feeding behaviour and designing a naturalistic enclosure. With sensible feeding and good hygiene, they can live well over a decade in captivity.