Learning Objectives

By the end of this lesson, learners will be able to:

• Set up safe and effective grow-out tubs for newly metamorphosed dart frogs.
• Maintain the correct humidity, ventilation, and microfauna for froglet stability.
• Provide appropriate feeding, supplementation, and monitoring.
• Prevent common issues such as dehydration, feeding failure, or escape.
• Transition froglets into adult vivariums safely and at the right time.

Lesson Content

Froglets (often called “morphs”) are the most fragile life stage of a dart frog.
They are tiny, inexperienced hunters, easily dehydrated, and prone to rapid decline if conditions are too dry, too wet, too large, or too complex.

A correctly set up grow-out tub is essential for survival.

1. Why Grow-Out Tubs Are Necessary

New froglets:

• dry out quickly
• cannot hunt in large spaces
• cannot climb well
• cannot compete with adults
• struggle to find micro-prey
• lose weight very fast if feeding is inconsistent

Grow-out tubs create a controlled micro-environment where froglets can feed, hydrate, and build strength.

2. The Ideal Grow-Out Tub Setup

Recommended Enclosure Size:

3–6 litres, depending on number of froglets.

Best Containers:

• Sterilite-style plastic tubs
• IKEA SAMLA tubs
• 3D-printed grow-out vivariums (your product fits perfectly here!)
• Small Exo Terra faunariums

3. Substrate Layering

Grow-out tubs don’t need full bioactive substrate, but they DO need microfauna.

Option A: Simple Grow-Out Layer (recommended)

• 1 cm ABG mixture or coco fibre
• generous leaf litter
• a handful of springtails
• a few dwarf isopods (optional but helpful)

Option B: Paper Towel Method (for very tiny froglets)

• ONLY for first 1–2 weeks
• easy to monitor feeding and waste
• change paper daily
• still add springtails for enrichment

Switch to leaf-litter setup once froglets are strong hunters.

4. Hides & Visual Barriers

Essential for reducing stress.

Provide:

• small cork pieces
• clusters of leaf litter
• a little moss
• a bark tunnel or shallow hide

Froglets thrive when they feel hidden.

5. Humidity & Ventilation

Humidity: 85–100%

Ventilation: Moderate (not sealed, not windy)

The goal is:

• permanently damp environment
• no stagnant or dripping-wet surfaces
• stable moisture across the tub

Daily Practice:

• mist lightly 1–2× per day
• leave one corner slightly drier
• ensure condensation is present but not streaming

6. Feeding Froglets

Froglets require tiny prey and frequent feeding.

Primary Foods:

• D. melanogaster fruit flies
• springtails (essential during first 2–3 weeks)

Feeding Frequency:

• Twice daily for the first 10–14 days
• Once daily thereafter

Supplement Schedule:

Same rotation you use:

• Calcium carbonate: every feed
• Repashy Calcium Plus: every second feed
• Vitamin A: once per month
• SuperPig: every two weeks

Tip:

Lightly mist before feeding — this keeps flies slow and froglets confident.

7. Monitoring Froglet Health

Healthy froglets:

• eat aggressively
• remain plump around the waist
• have smooth, hydrated skin
• climb well
• are visible often

Warning signs:

• “skinny frog syndrome”
• dull or dry skin
• lethargy
• hiding constantly
• refusing food
• hopping weakly or uncoordinated

Immediate action:

• increase feeding frequency
• increase springtails
• review humidity
• check temperatures

8. When to Move Froglets Into Adult Vivariums

Move froglets only when they meet all criteria:

✔ Size:

about 1.5–2.0 cm (for Ranitomeya)
or
3+ cm (for Dendrobates/Ameerega)

✔ Behaviour:

• confidently hunting hydei (if applicable)
• bold and exploring
• visible regularly
• strong jump strength

✔ Condition:

• well-fed
• hydration stable
• no signs of SLS

✔ Vivarium readiness:

• stable bioactive cycle
• strong microfauna
• mature plants
• stable humidity and temperature

9. Grouping Froglets

Froglets can be raised in groups:

Best practice:

• 3–5 froglets per small tub
• equal size individuals
• monitor feeding to ensure no one is bullied

Avoid:

• overcrowding
• mixing sizes
• mixing species (ever)

Bullying at this stage is subtle but dangerous.

Key Takeaways

• Froglets are fragile and require controlled grow-out environments.
• Use 3–6 litre tubs with leaf litter, springtails, and moderate ventilation.
• Feed twice daily at first, with tiny feeders and correct supplements.
• High humidity and stable moisture are crucial.
• Only move froglets to adult vivariums once they are strong, bold, and feeding well.