Learning Objectives

By the end of this lesson, learners will be able to:

  • Set up safe, stable enclosures for dart frog tadpoles.
  • Maintain clean water with correct depth, temperature, and biofilm levels.
  • Feed tadpoles appropriate diets at each life stage.
  • Monitor growth, health, and development.
  • Prevent common problems such as water fouling, SLS (short leg syndrome), and stunted development.

Lesson Content

This lesson covers generalist (non-obligate) tadpoles — the type produced by Dendrobates, Phyllobates, Ameerega, and several other species.

These tadpoles are far more forgiving than obligate feeders and can be raised successfully by beginners when given clean water, stable temperatures, and proper nutrition.


1. Tadpole Housing Options

You can raise non-obligate tadpoles in:

A) Individual cups (most common)

  • 250–500 ml deli cups
  • safe for monitoring
  • prevents aggression/cannibalism
  • easy to clean and change water

B) Small communal tubs

  • 2–6 tadpoles together
  • only if species tolerates group rearing (e.g., tinctorius)
  • requires more rigorous water changes

C) Natural bromeliads or cup-style vivarium rearing

  • excellent enrichment
  • harder to monitor
  • suitable for experienced keepers only

For beginners → individual cups are best.


2. Water Depth & Parameters

Depth:

5–8 cm is ideal for most species.

Too deep = tadpoles struggle to reach surface.
Too shallow = unstable temperature, fouling.

Temperature:

22–25°C (room temperature in many homes).
Avoid sudden fluctuations.

Water Type:

  • conditioned tap water
  • RO water re-mineralised slightly
  • dechlorinated water

Never use distilled water — it lacks minerals.

Add botanicals:

  • sea almond leaves
  • oak/magnolia leaves
  • alder cones

These add tannins, mild antimicrobial benefits, and biofilm.


3. Feeding Non-Obligate Tadpoles

Non-obligates eat a wide variety of foods.
A balanced diet is essential for proper limb development.

Primary Foods:

  • high-quality spirulina flakes
  • powdered tadpole diet
  • Repashy Soilent Green or SuperGold
  • algae wafers (broken into tiny pieces)

Supplementary Foods:

  • boiled spinach or kale (tiny amounts)
  • boiled courgette
  • fish fry food
  • biofilm from magnolia leaves

Feeding Schedule:

  • Tiny tadpoles: once every 1–2 days (pinch of food)
  • Mid-size tadpoles: small feed daily
  • Large tadpoles: small feed daily + occasional wafer piece

Feeding Rule:

Feed very small amounts — overfeeding is the #1 cause of death.

Tadpoles should finish their food within 2–3 hours.


4. Water Changes

Clean water is vital, especially as tadpoles grow.

Recommended schedule:

  • 30–50% water change every 3–4 days
  • full clean every 7–10 days
  • remove uneaten food daily

When changing water:

  • always temperature-match
  • drip acclimate if the change is large
  • save a small amount of the “old” water to preserve bacteria

Signs water quality is declining:

  • cloudy water
  • foul smell
  • tadpole gulping air excessively
  • slow growth
  • fungus on food or leaf litter

Fix with immediate partial water change.


5. Growth Stages & Monitoring

Tadpoles pass through several stages:

Stage 1: Free-swimming

  • tiny
  • mostly body with a small tail
  • eats soft foods

Stage 2: Mid-stage development

  • tail thickens
  • body widens
  • appetite increases
  • water fouls faster

Stage 3: Leg development

  • back legs appear first
  • front legs form under skin
  • feeding slows naturally

Stage 4: Metamorphosis (air stage)

  • front legs emerge
  • tail shrinks
  • must have land access

6. Preparing for Froglet Transition

Once back legs emerge, prepare a grow-out tub (next lesson).
At this stage:

  • lower the water level
  • tilt the container so the tadpole can crawl out
  • include a piece of cork or floating leaf
  • reduce feeding (appetite drops naturally)
  • increase access to air

Never leave tadpoles in deep water once front legs appear — they can drown.


7. Common Tadpole Problems

A) Slow Growth

Causes:

  • cold temperatures
  • not enough food
  • poor water quality
  • no tannins

B) Curved spine

Often genetic or due to poor nutrition.

C) Tail rot / fungus

Caused by:

  • dirty water
  • decaying food
  • too much uneaten food

Fix:

  • immediate water change
  • add tannin sources
  • improve cleaning schedule

D) SLS — Short Leg Syndrome

Linked to:

  • poor diet diversity
  • lack of minerals
  • weak genetics
  • rapid temperature swings

Prevention:

  • spirulina + varied diet
  • stable temperatures
  • clean water
  • tannins

Key Takeaways

  • Raise tadpoles individually or in small groups for best results.
  • Use shallow, tannin-rich water with stable temperatures.
  • Feed tiny portions regularly — never overfeed.
  • Clean water = healthy tadpoles.
  • Prepare a grow-out tub before froglets leave the water.
  • Monitor growth stages closely to prevent drowning or developmental issues.


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