Drainage Layers & False Bottoms

Learning Objectives

By the end of this lesson, learners will be able to:

  • Understand the purpose of drainage in a bioactive vivarium.
  • Identify the two main types of drainage systems: LECA and false bottoms.
  • Install a drainage layer correctly beneath substrate.
  • Prevent waterlogging, anaerobic zones, and root rot.
  • Maintain long-term hydration cycles safely.

Lesson Content

A proper drainage layer is essential in a bioactive vivarium. It prevents excess water from saturating the substrate, protects plant roots, and creates long-term environmental stability. Without drainage, bioactive systems quickly become waterlogged, anaerobic (oxygen-poor), and unhealthy for both frogs and microfauna.

Drainage sits at the very bottom of the enclosure and forms the foundation for the entire system.


1. Why Drainage Matters

In a sealed or semi-sealed environment, water needs somewhere to go. Dart frog vivariums often require daily misting—sometimes multiple times per day. Over time, this water moves downward into the substrate.

Without proper drainage:

  • substrate becomes oversaturated
  • beneficial microbes die off
  • roots suffocate and rot
  • isopods decline
  • anaerobic (sour-smelling) pockets form
  • fungus and harmful bacteria thrive

With drainage:

  • water collects below the substrate
  • moisture rises upward gradually
  • substrate remains breathable
  • microfauna thrive
  • root systems remain healthy
  • humidity stays stable

A well-built drainage layer can last years without replacement.


2. Types of Drainage Layers

There are two main systems used in the hobby:


(1) LECA (Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate)

This is the most common drainage method.

Advantages:

  • Lightweight
  • Easy to rinse
  • Long-lasting
  • Provides airflow beneath the substrate
  • Excellent water retention and release

How to use LECA:

  1. Rinse thoroughly until water runs clear.
  2. Add a 3–5 cm layer at the bottom of the vivarium.
  3. Level it evenly.

(2) False Bottom (Egg Crate + Mesh)

This creates a raised platform above a water reservoir.

Advantages:

  • Holds more water than LECA
  • Provides excellent drainage for large tanks
  • Very stable base for heavy hardscape

Standard installation:

  1. Cut egg crate to fit the base of the enclosure.
  2. Elevate it using PVC spacers or egg crate cubes.
  3. Lay a fine mesh screen on top.
  4. Seal edges with silicone if needed.

False bottoms excel in larger vivariums (>60 cm tall) or extremely wet setups.


3. Adding a Barrier Layer (Mandatory)

Regardless of drainage type, a barrier layer must separate the drainage from the substrate.

This prevents:

  • substrate falling into drainage
  • isopods drowning
  • anaerobic pockets forming
  • muddy substrate collapse

Suitable barrier materials:

  • Weed control fabric
  • Fine aquarium mesh
  • Landscape fabric
  • Geotextile fleece
  • Window screen (fine mesh only)

Ensure the material:

  • allows water to pass freely
  • prevents substrate from slipping through

Do not use thick plastic sheets — they block water flow completely.


4. Monitoring and Maintaining the Drainage Layer

Drainage requires minimal maintenance, but good keepers monitor it regularly.

Watch for:

  • rising water levels (visible through glass)
  • stagnant smell (rare but possible)
  • substrate collapse
  • water reaching the substrate layer

If water levels rise:

  • Use a turkey baster or siphon to remove excess
  • Reduce misting duration slightly
  • Increase ventilation to encourage evaporation

Most well-built tanks require drainage removal only every few months, sometimes less.


5. Drainage Depth Guide

For dart frogs:

Vivarium HeightRecommended Drainage Depth
Under 40 cm3 cm minimum
40–60 cm4–5 cm
60+ cm6+ cm (false bottom recommended)

Deep drainage = long-term bioactive stability.


6. Common Mistakes to Avoid

❌ Not rinsing LECA

Dust and clay particles clog water flow.

❌ No barrier layer

Substrate falls through, leading to rot and collapse.

❌ Drainage too shallow

Water saturates the substrate prematurely.

❌ Overmisting early on

Before plants and microfauna stabilise, the tank needs less water.

❌ Using gravel or pebbles

These may look similar to LECA but offer poor drainage and add unnecessary weight.


Key Takeaways

  • Drainage prevents substrate saturation and maintains long-term vivarium health.
  • LECA and false bottoms are the two most reliable systems.
  • A barrier layer is mandatory in all bioactive setups.
  • Drainage depth varies based on tank size and misting frequency.
  • Proper drainage supports plants, microfauna, and stable humidity.

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